12/8/2023 0 Comments Bei jing chinese food farmingdale![]() For breakfast, there is gozleme, a flaky flatbread folded around potato, spinach and cheese, or ground meat, and menemen, a curdy scramble of eggs, tomatoes, and peppers. For Zara Forest Grill, in Graniteville, which is closer to New Jersey than Manhattan, it’s a commitment I’m willing to make. Read the full review »Įven in the best circumstances, a trip to Staten Island from any other borough is a commitment, a decent journey by bridge or boat. It’s a thrillingly theatrical experience, with a grand finale: Do you want the carcass hacked into bite-size pieces and crisp-fried, or submerged in a fragrant and savory cloudy soup, with silken tofu and tender greens? I preferred the latter, but both preparations do justice to the precious bits of meat and fat which cling to the bones. From what looks like a royal jewel chest, a server pulls tiny drawers housing accoutrements-hoisin, scallions, matchsticks of cucumber, pickles, honeydew melon-then demonstrates the optimal technique for wrapping slices of meat and garnishes into bing pancakes, plucked from a bamboo steamer. First, a chef with the precision of a surgeon removes a long strip of lacquered, golden skin, which gets razored into segments the size of postage stamps each is placed atop a square of steamed bread and finished with a delicate pile of sturgeon caviar. The most obvious thing to eat at Ju Qi, a restaurant in Tangram, a luxury mall in Flushing, is a bird-a whole Peking duck, carved tableside. Holdovers from the old menu include the burger, made from quinoa, chickpeas, and walnuts the Sloppy Dave (tofu chili, frizzled onions) the burnt-broccoli salad (eggplant purée, candied cashews) and the beets with cream cheese and pretzels-all still wonderful. In a nod to Odessa’s Ukrainian heritage, there’s a texturally thrilling stuffed cabbage, filled with sticky rice and oyster and button mushrooms, draped in a sweet-and-sour tomato sauce, and finished with crunchy focaccia bread crumbs. On recent visits, I was delighted to find that Headley is keeping the focus as tight as ever. All of it, including the eponymous burger, was vegetarian a lot was “accidentally vegan.” Everything popped. The original Superiority Burger offered just six dishes, plus specials and desserts. Here are twenty New York restaurants, among thousands, that I recommend without reservation.Įarlier this year, the chef Brooks Headley relocated his previously tiny veggie-burger joint to the relatively sprawling space in the East Village that, for decades, had housed the Odessa Restaurant. The best cocktails I’ve ever had-laced with orange-blossom water and dried lime-at a Persian restaurant in Bushwick. A tiny noodle stall buried deep inside a food hall in Koreatown, run by a devoted daughter and her mother, who has a hand in making every plate of food. A palace of traditional Turkish food in a former pancake house on Staten Island, worth a trip across the Verrazzano Bridge in standstill traffic. An ancient Jewish lunch counter in the Flatiron district, brought lovingly back to life by new owners and made somehow more essentially itself. ![]() It’s hard to pick, but I’ve found a few thrills to be especially electric. As a parting gift to readers, I decided to make a list of my favorite places that I’ve reviewed. I recently transitioned to a new role, which means I’m no longer writing the column every week (though I will still be writing regularly about food for the magazine). In the past few years, as I ate my way through the boroughs, chronicling meals for Tables for Two, the delights seemed inexhaustible. We’re living at a moment when it’s harder than ever to keep a restaurant running, let alone open a new one, yet there are always, improbably, new places to eat-global pandemics and floodwaters be damned. One of the things I love most about this city is how regenerative it is, against all odds. You could write dozens of obituaries a year for beloved New York restaurants that have shuttered their doors.
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